I’m going to write this section a little differently. Focusing on individual day trips or experiences I thought were important. Some of them will blend days and time because of people I met, etc.. You’ll just have to deal with it because, well… I’m the author. I’m justifying it to myself because I think it’s easier, since I was in Oaxaca for a decent amount of time, part of which was used relaxing and just walking around the city.
Day Trip to Hierve El Agua
First, along with Lucas and Leisa, we walked over to where you can catch a bus off the side of the road to take you about an hour out to Mitla. From there you are supposed to hop in a collectivo, a pick up truck with a little rack over the bed. It’s pretty cheap but because of that you have to wait until it fills up. Despite the irksome nature of waiting, it turned out super well because we would meet some new friends to experience Hierve with and some that would/will continue to play a part in my travels. Eliza and Kyle - from Newcastle, Australia; Julian and Sarah - from Malta, and Loche (I don’t know the spelling, it’s a nickname) from Melbourne.
We grabbed a beer each on the way and we began the ascent up a mountain, with the chilling air blowing on us in the back of the truck. Sipping our beers while cramped in the back of a pick up is an easy way to make friends. We got acquainted quickly and as travelers in the unknown are known to do.
Once we arrived, there is a little abandoned resort looking area and a few restaurants that are empty, it’s pretty strange. However, the rock features themselves are impressive. My limited geology knowledge will make explaining this interesting…My understanding is that the waterfalls from the springs calcified over time and have made large rock formations that look like waterfalls; kind of like extreme stalagmites. In addition, water still flows down one and has a pool that you can swim in. I think it’s natural but I’m not sure. We went for a dip after starting the hike that presumably goes into the valley that you overlook but we only went part way and turned back. Surprisingly enough, I wasn’t even the least equipped to hike in vans. Anyways, with the proper gear and water, it would be a great hike. Downhill into the sprawling tree covered valley down to the river and back up sounds like fantastic jaunt. However, with new friends and new adventures you can’t go wrong no matter how things play out. We ended up meeting up again at night in the plaza of Oaxaca for drinks at night and then parted ways. However, that’s not the end. I continued to travel with Lucas and Leisa through San Cristobal and have seen Eliza and Kyle in both Puerto Escondido and briefly in Merida (At the time of writing I just got here). I’ll explain those later.
Monte Alban
This section is going to be a tad disappointing. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a very cool place. But without just reciting history that I’d have to look up to be accurate and detailed, it’s not very exciting to write about ruins. There is a very amazing and preserved city atop a hill overlooking Oaxaca, and I recommend it. But it’s not easy to write about non-eventful museum visits. I could tell you about things I learned or turn this into philosophical thoughts about time and culture — which might be exciting to read. It might also be terribly boring, and unless I’m in the right state of mind to write that, it won’t translate well. Let’s just have that conversation in person. I’ll say this.
It’s staggering how these things are built and how they have lasted. No way could you undertake things of this nature today, there’s no financial justification. Slavery and mental slavery i.e. the gods told us to do it have a way of making great monuments. I’m grateful we don’t have to deal with that today, but I know we won’t produce things of this nature much ever again unless another powerful dictator/god-monarch comes to power somewhere.
Go see ruins, get in your own head, ponder stuff.
Art Collectives and Other Cultural Notes
There is a lively art scene in Oaxaca, and it’s not your mom’s. Most of it is highly political and addressed violence, immigration, drugs, and more things than I’m privy to. A lot of it is similar stylistically to street art in the states, others use indigenous themes and styles with a modern twist. We went to a gallery/collective that has a few locations. They were similar events to small art shows in Newport but they had mezcal, chellas (as far as I can tell, just another word for beers), and a vibrant community that will be discussed again in San Cristobal.
Leading up to Christmas there was a holiday called The Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe (Dec. 12) but it’s more like a week. It’s been celebrated in a few places. Specifically including fireworks that are more like cannons (not visibly fireworks but explosions in the sky) that go off starting at the crack of dawn and go all day. It doesn’t make sense. Anyways, I was there for the actual day and there was a big parade in the streets, similar to a secondline in New Orleans. Brass brands, drunk kids, crowded streets, lively to say the least. A cool experience, but my distaste for large, slow moving bodies of people got the better of me and I didn’t watch long. Plus, it was competing with the art gallery I mentioned, that’s much more my speed.
Other fun notes — they love anime and cartoons down here (again mentioned in San Cristobal). I’ve seen several DBZ, Naruto, etc themed books, advertisements (typically on food carts), shirts, you name it. I’m into it, obviously. Well obvious to those who know me.
